The coriander-laced aroma drifted across our table, cleared our senses, washed away summer's heat and set the tone for a remarkable evening. Much like a religious ceremony, dinner at Herons requires faith in the sacrament of hospitality. As with any profound ritual, one should be in the proper frame of mind. After all, embarking on a ten-course meal is not for the rushed, the harried, or the unfaithful.
Cary, North Carolina's Umstead Hotel, and its flagship restaurant Herons is luxurious, yet restrained.
Smoked Trout Cannoli
Where some fine hotels are full of grandeur and opulence, The Umstead is polished, professional and subdued. The lobby, outdoor space, and hallways are discreetly furnished with polished wood grains, curated original art, polished granite, laser-cut steel, and rare flowers. Their service is eager yet never cloying. I haven't been to Tokyo but I believe the Umstead has a distinct Japanese aesthetic. From the doorman to the concierge to Hai Tran, their masterful sommelier, their level of engagement is knowledgeable and politely enthusiastic without gushing over their guests.
Avocado with crab, green tomato, finger lime, sweet corn, and green shiso
Upon entering the dining room, one immediately notices the seemingly open kitchen that dominates the view, yet it's covered by thick glass. A diner may watch the kitchen's proceedings yet there is little noise. It's Kitchen Anime, no subtitles needed. Exactly what one would expect at this level of five star, five diamond refinement.
Foie gras, vanilla glaze, almond toast, sherry, milk crisp, roasted figs
Steven Greene has been the executive chef at Herons at the Umstead Hotel since 2014. I've known Steven since 2005 when he and his brothers opened Devereaux's here in Greenville, SC. They quietly turned a mediocre steak house into a sophisticated, contemporary dining room that hosted the French Laundry's Thomas Keller only three years after opening. Steven smiled readily, thanked profusely, and cooked with an ambition that our town hasn't seen since. He's also a native South Carolinian. He grew up in Greenwood, SC, about an hour west. Greenwood is as charming as a Southern town can be. He wound up washing dishes at an honest French cafe, Pascal's, and through hard work and perseverance he eventually worked his way to the Woodlands where he was Chef de Cuisine under Ken Vedrinski and later Scott Crawford.
"When I started at Pascal's I already knew I wanted to cook, and he set me on the right path." And yet, like all good Southern cooks, Steven's grandmother instilled in him the basics of cooking, which he still practices today.
"My grandmother, Nora Greene, was a great cook and very hospitable to guests in her home. She was the one that inspired me to be a cook. She gracefully reminded me to always put care and love into everything you prepare, and your guests will taste it."
Our evening at Herons was certainly full of love and care. Starting with a Smoked Trout Cannoli, each dish grew in complexity and intrigue. And while dinner at Herons may be fine dining at its most exquisite, Steven is still a Southerner and loves true Southern staples. Our meal included pork loin, local mushrooms, South Carolina peaches, sweet tea, watermelon, Vidalia onions, frog legs, buttermilk, hickory, and huckleberries.
Blueberry, basil ice cream, blue corn cake, crystallized blueberries
This September, Steven will return to Greenville to participate in Euphoria, our local Food, Music & Wine festival that's celebrating its tenth year. In those ten years, Greenville has hosted numerous upper-echelon chefs such as Gerry Klaskala, David Guas, Jeremiah Bacon, Sean Brock, and of course Thomas Keller. After seven years away, Steven Greene is finally returning to his hometown, where he'll join chefs such as Lionel Vatinet, Katie Button, John Fleer, and Steven Satterfield.
Cary, NC is certainly a very different town from Greenville, SC. Cary feels new, and in a way it is. The growth of North Carolina's Research Triangle has fueled its exponential growth while Greenville has grown due to a warmer combination of family, business, and outdoor-friendly vibes. Cary, however, can support an Umstead, while we're not quite there.
"I'm excited to see Greenville again, to reacquaint myself with Main Street, and of course I've still got family there. I certainly miss Greenville but there's nothing like the Umstead outside of New York, and I simply couldn't pass up this opportunity. I really love it here."
When I asked this former dishwasher, now Star Chef, if he felt at all prodigal, he thought for a minute and smiled.
"Perhaps, in a small way. Greenville will always feel like home, and it's always good to go home."