10/27/2010 10:15 am ET Updated Dec 06, 2017

Ciano: Allstar Italian in the Flatiron

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Forming a supergroup is an high risk/reward venture -- sure, the Cream may rise to the top, but others end up eating Humble Pie, or worse, Chickenfoot. Electing to run the supergroup gauntlet culinary-style: Ciano.

With former Bouley Chef de Cuisine Shea Gallante backed up by a patissier from Cru, a Bar Henry alum somm, and a floor captain from Per Se, Ciano's team of gustatory all-stars're plying their market-driven trade within a dining room whose streamlined burnt orange banquettes belie a modern take on a rustic Italian lodge (planked wooden floors, wood-fueled fireplace), plus a smaller upstairs lounge that overlooks the street (but not the Blackstreet, as no one wants to have to bag it up). Focused on seasonal ingredients, antipasti include roasted veal meatballs sporting truffled pecorino and creamy herb polenta, and poached rock shrimp w/ tomato-cherry pepper sauce/ fried basil/ aioli; pastas get inventive as well, from a clam/ garlic/ chili sauce leveled-up with saffron tagliatelle, to pancetta/ lardo/ fontina-covered tortellini stuffed with braised capon, a step up from capo, as they're usually braised on the streets. Secondis move on to slow roasted rosemary-honey beef ribs w/ chanterelles, a fava & fingerling-abetted Lobster Pot (rosemary butter, porcinis), and a "steak" of roasted Berkshire pork shoulder, which certainly isn't something to get lean on.

Skewing towards Italian vinos, the wine program even boasts 100+ bottles orderable by the half (with the leftovers avail to guests by the glass), a method known as the "half-bottle approach" that spares anyone from having to go to the Temple of the Dog to get its hair.

Opens Nov 5th: 45 E 22nd St; btw Park Ave South and Broadway; Flatiron; 212.982.8422

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